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Ditil Datil Hot Pepper

Capsicum chinense

$4.50
Description

When we got these plants years ago from our friends at Firefly Farm, we thought they were Datil Peppers—the beloved Florida heirloom from the St. Augustine area. Turns out, they weren't. The peppers were larger and milder than a true Datil, though still very, very hot.

Since we don't know what the heck they actually are, we're calling them Ditil Datil (pronounced “Diddle Daddle”). We still love them, even if they're not the OG Florida Datil.

The plants get big, about 4–5 feet tall and are loaded with peppers. They're very productive, and have great flavor, if you can handle the heat.

We thought they were fabulous, but some die-hard Datil fans aren't convinced. As Jordan from The Family Garden put it: “Well, it's good, but it ain't no Datil.”

True. But still.

Product details
  • About 50 seeds
  • ~90 days to harvest from transplant
  • Seeds grown in Working Food gardens at GROW HUB in Gainesville, Florida
How to grow

Sow pepper seeds ¼ inch deep in pots and transplant outdoors after the last frost. Peppers love warmth and do not tolerate cold weather, so if you plant them out early and a late frost is expected, be sure to protect them.

For the best germination, start seeds indoors on a heat mat or in another warm spot. In North Florida, we like to start peppers in late January or early February and transplant them outside as soon as they are safely past the risk of frost. You can also start a late summer/fall crop in August.

Space plants 24-36 inches apart, depending on the variety. Peppers are productive plants and will do best in fertile, compost-rich soil with adequate organic fertilizer and consistent moisture. Avoid overhead watering when possible. If you do need to water from above, water in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry, helping reduce disease problems.

How to save seeds

Peppers can self-pollinate, so it is possible to save viable seed from just one plant. However, peppers can also cross-pollinate with other pepper varieties, especially when there are plenty of pollinating insects around. If you are trying to keep a variety genetically pure, the more varieties you grow, the more important isolation becomes. Depending on insect activity, you may need as much as 1,600 feet between varieties to reliably prevent crossing! We’ve gotten away with much closer spacing on our farm because we grow lots of other flowering plants between our peppers, giving pollinators plenty of other options.

For long-term seed saving, it’s best to save seed from 50 or more plants, or as many as you reasonably can. Saving from just a handful of plants may work for a season or two, but over time we’ve noticed that small populations can lead to deterioration of the variety as genetic diversity is lost.

When saving pepper seed, be sure the fruit has reached full maturity and its final color before harvesting. Letting peppers become slightly overripe on the plant can give the seeds even more time to mature. Scoop out the seeds and allow them to dry completely before storing.

A note about hot peppers: Wear gloves when handling hot peppers, especially when removing the seeds! One method we like is to cut the top off the pepper with the seeds still attached and let the whole seed-filled portion dry. This gives the seeds a little extra time to finish maturing before they are separated and stored.

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