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Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
  • Prairie Cherry Tomato
Prairie Cherry Tomato

Solanum lycopersicum
$4.50
Description

A new variety created by staff at Working Food, more than 8 years in the making (as of 2024)! Prairie Cherry is a cross between Everglades currant and Tanunda Red dwarf beefsteak, selected to have the vigor and flavor qualities of the Everglades, but in a more compact plant. This is an entirely new tomato plant growth form as far as we can tell— a semi-sprawling dwarf. Although short in stature, these plants are best trellised despite growing no more than about 2' tall. They are very productive! 

The fruit tends to be more on the tangy side with flavor descriptions from tasters that include: savory with a hint of umami, a little sweet and tart, juicy, refreshing, and zesty! While this variety is mostly stable, there is still some variation between plants mostly in terms of slight size/shape differences and fruit sizes. Some fruit will display really nice lobed shoulders and are large for a cherry,  larger, while occasionally a few fruits are small like Everglades. Some variation in a variety is a good thing, it means there's more diversity in the genetics and hasn't entirely been inbred.

Prairie Cherry is open-pollinated, so seeds can be saved and this variety can go on to live and adapt to gardens and farms wherever they may grow into the the next version  of Prairie Cherry! 

We are grateful for the help of Craig LeHouillier and Timothy Noyes who helped guide us in our first ever tomato breeding adventure!

Indeterminate, sprawling dwarf. Large red/pink cherries, some size variation within fruit. Suitable for intermediate experience level tomato growers.
Product details
  • Indeterminate, sprawling dwarf. Large red/pink cherries, some size and shape variation
  • About 35 seeds
  • 60 days from transplant to harvest
  • Seeds grown in Working Food gardens at GROW HUB in Gainesville, Florida
How to grow

Sow seeds indoors from mid-January through early February, preferably on a heat mat or in another warm spot. Warmth will speed up germination and help seedlings get off to a strong start. More wild types like Everglades, Coyote and Prairie Cherry benefit from soaking in shallow, warm water for about 8 hours before sowing. This will improve germination rates and timing. 

Transplant outdoors once the risk of frost has passed—or earlier if you’re willing to keep an eye on the forecast and cover plants when cold weather threatens. When transplanting, plant tomatoes deeply. Remove the lower, tender leaves and bury the stem as deeply as you can, up to just below the lowest remaining branch. Tomatoes will develop roots along their buried stems, creating a stronger, more extensive root system.

Water plants in thoroughly when transplanting and keep them well watered, especially during the first week or two as they establish. Mulch with straw, pine needles, or leaves to conserve moisture and help prevent soil from splashing onto the foliage during rain.

For best results, stake or trellis your plants and remove lower leaves that touch or rest close to the soil. This improves airflow and helps reduce disease problems.

Learn all you need to know about growing tomatoes in our free guide: Homegrown Tomatoes in the Southeast.
How to save seeds

If you can grow a tomato, the hard part is done—saving the seeds is easy!

Harvest fully mature tomatoes, and even better, let them ripen a little longer indoors until they are just slightly overripe, while still edible. Tomatoes are mostly self-pollinating, but not always, so there is always some potential for varieties to cross with one another. To help prevent unwanted crosses, space different varieties as far apart as possible. Or, let nature make a cross for you—you may end up with a great new tomato!

You can save seed from as few as one plant, but saving from more plants is always better for maintaining genetic diversity and keeping your variety healthy over time.

Squeeze the seeds and their surrounding pulp into a jar and let them sit for 24–48 hours, depending on how quickly the fermentation progresses. Stir the mixture once a day and look for a layer of mold to form on the surface—this is normal and part of the process! Once the jelly-like coating around the seeds has broken down, rinse and strain the seeds several times with fresh water. The good, mature seeds will generally sink, while lighter, immature seeds and debris tend to float. Pour off the floating material and continue rinsing until the water runs mostly clear.

Spread the clean seeds out to dry completely on a cloth napkin or coffee filter. Avoid paper towels or newspaper, as the seeds can stick to them. Let the seeds dry for several days, then store them somewhere cool, dark, and dry. Properly stored tomato seeds can remain viable for many years.

Learn all you need to know about saving tomato seeds in our free guide: Saving Tomato Seeds

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